Beet Risotto is not like beet anything and it’s not like risotto any other way. It’s rich without cream; it’s earthy without winter; it’s sublime without a truffle in sight. It wasn’t long ago I wrote about beet soup, its color and richness such a pleasure after a spring of baby lettuces; This time, the sometimes boorish root known for keeping peasants strong meets Northern Italia’s proud starch, for a sensual date. If you can find a cool night to stand over the pan for twenty-five minutes, you will be rewarded. If it’s a hot night, pour yourself a glass of wine and share the stirring with someone else.